This story was reported and written by our media partner Capital New Service.
Virginia lawmakers want to remove toxic chemicals from cosmetics to better protect public health, something advocates say is also better for the environment.
Del. Karen Keys-Gamarra, D-Fairfax, introduced the Humane and Toxin-Free Cosmetics Act, or House Bill 122. The proposal updates the Virginia Consumer Protection Act to ban use of certain chemicals such as formaldehyde and methylene glycol, among others.
Formaldehyde is known to induce contact dermatitis, a form of eczema, according to the National Health Service. It is found in preservatives that release formaldehyde through activation by water. Shampoos and creams are a common carrier, according to the National Library of Medicine.
Formaldehyde, at high levels or prolonged exposure, is also considered a human carcinogen, according to the Food and Drug Administration.
Methylene glycol is a liquid form of formaldehyde found in hair smoothing products. When the hair smoothing solution is heated, formaldehyde is released into the air as a gas. Formaldehyde, when airborne, can cause irritation to the eyes, nose and lungs, according to the FDA.
Keys-Gamarra was inspired to introduce the measure because of a National Conference of State Legislatures training. The toxins have been a focus in bills introduced in other states. She noted concern regarding products for perms and lipstick.
“I know perms, lipsticks … we don’t even know what’s in there and there’s no real way to know unless you do a lot of research and that's not what you're doing when you go to CVS,” Keys-Gamarra said.
The chemicals have a human impact, according to Keys-Gamarra.
“I am aware, for example, with chemicals used for Black women and other women, there are chemicals in there that can cause cancer, that can cause other health problems and it’s treated as though it's a cost of business,” Keys-Gamarra said.
Autumn Carter owns Red Salon Organics in Richmond. She was inspired to create an environmentally-friendly salon after being diagnosed with autoimmune issues. She researched potential causes of the autoimmune concerns and the environmental and bodily impacts of daily items she was around, according to Carter.
“I just started researching it in my own personal life and then I was like: ‘Well, wait a minute, what am I inhaling at work?’” Carter said. “What is going into my skin and being absorbed into my bloodstream?”
Carter decided that she wanted an environmentally-conscious salon that would also prioritize safety of her guests. The salon does not use any product with formaldehyde.
Carter hopes to see more regulation in cosmetics of any carcinogenic product that causes harm to people and the environment.
Unlike Europe, the U.S. cosmetic and hair industry is not really FDA controlled, she said. She used Brazilian blowouts as an example and said a certain ventilation system is often needed to offset chemical exposure, but only a small number of salons have those in place.
“There's no real regulation, or people kind of overseeing, to make sure that these things are safe for us to be inhaling and for us to have absorbed into our skin and our bloodstream,” Carter said.
The FDA does not require cosmetics and ingredients, besides color additives, to have FDA approval before going on the market. The products must follow laws and regulations regarding interstate commerce, according to the FDA. The Occupational Safety and Health Administration regulates workplace safety in regards to exposure to identified hazardous chemicals.
Carter works with a retired nurse practitioner, whose focus is women's health, to determine the impact and use of products. There are some items that are completely unavoidable, but her decisions include the type and percentage used in a product and its impact on people and the environment.
Keys-Gamarra’s bill was assigned to the House Housing/Consumer Protection subcommittee, but has not been heard yet. Del. Rae Cousins, D-Richmond, introduced House Bill 864, a similar piece of legislation that also remains in the subcommittee.
Capital News Service is a program of Virginia Commonwealth University’s Robertson School of Communication. Students in the program provide state government coverage for a variety of media outlets in Virginia.