Italian love songs whistle through canals and stone passageways, the splendor of the blue-green lagoon mesmerizes, and the grandeur of St. Mark’s Square commands attention.Only 50,000 residents remain in the last of an ancient powerhouse, as Venice was once the wealthiest city in Europe. Despite its splendor, Venice is not sinking, it is drowning. The city now falls to rising sea levels, corrupt officials mismanaging infrastructure funds, and tourist-trapping entrepreneurs. For now, the heartbeat of Venice sustains itself, but not for long.
If you want the chance to witness this wonder, now is the time.
I made a point to visit once again in seven years, to behold its beauty, perhaps my last. With a second trip, you begin to notice the finer details like how the locals maintain their unique culture, fashion, cuisine, and of course, their drinks. Mornings are cappuccinos and cathedrals of fine art, afternoons are canal-side lunches and palaces, and sunset are for strolling and multi-course dinners.
Yet, the most revered hour for Italians is often overlooked by the 150,000 tourists: Aperitivo. This is the “happy hour” time of day where Venetians close up shop and head to local cicchetti bars for a glass of house wine or cocktail with a small spread. They believe a drink and nosh before dinner opens the appetite amidst the salty sea air.
To prepare a legitimate aperitivo, first, know that the word used as both a noun and verb ( watch me). Let us begin with the fare. Prepare a dish of olives or nuts, cheeses, and toasted bread with veggies and/or meats. Again, these are not meant to be appetizers, which can fill up a guest; keep it simple, like the Italians do.
Pick what you like and make it your own. I set out a mix of spicy olives with artichoke and sun-dried tomato pieces (available at most groceries); a mix of hard and semi-soft cheeses like a sharp Pecorino, smooth Asiago, and creamy Fontina; and crostinis of roasted red peppers and olive oil with bits of fresh basil.
For drinks, the key element, Venetians will always prefer a glass of Prosecco (I like Tesoro Tello Regino, $15). To create their most popular aperitivo, a Bellini, simply add peach puree and drop in a raspberry. As an alternative to bubbles, they enjoy a light Rose (try Due Girs deGris Sable de Camargue Grenach Carigna, $10).
There is typically a stiff, cool cocktail on the aperitivo menu. Try a Blackberry Fresca (in this order):
- Muddle three mint leaves in a glass
- Add three blackberries (slightly muddle)
- 1 ounce of fresh lemon juice
- 1-2 ounces of vodka
- Add ½ cup of ice
- 4-6 ounces of club soda (or tonic if you like sweeter)
What better way to pass on the charm of Venice than to bring it home. Aperitivo will require you to slow down, open the windows, and savor that brief time of the day when work ends and the evening begins. Enjoy with loved ones and friends and repeat, “Ahh, Venice.”
Alicia DeFonzo is a Lecturer of English at Old Dominion University, freelance food writer, and travel enthusiast who leads an annual Study Abroad to London. She is also a member of the WHRO Community Advisory Board.